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When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small shop securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.